Diasporican

August 15, 2022
Food writer Maisonet discards the rose-colored perspective many cookbooks offer in this provocative look at the food traditions of Puerto Rico. Though she learned to cook from her grandmother, it’s “not a romantic story,” Maisonet writes, but rather “one of generational poverty and trauma with glimpses of pride and laughter.” Unsentimental essays on the complicated history of diasporic food and Maisonet’s family story intersperse recipes that are unafraid to buck tradition: wrapping pasteles in foil rather than banana leaves caused a stir when Maisonet posted these “pasteles de California” on the internet. A chapter of delicious fried foods (a technique descended from Africa) includes lacy bacalao fritters and puffy coconut shells split and filled with shellfish. Flavors are bold—chicken kebabs are slathered in a guava sauce—and the fare isn’t “quick and easy” cooking (pork pernil roasts for six to seven hours and lechón requires two days’ prep), though desserts offer some shortcuts, such as a pineapple upside down cake that incorporates pudding mix, cake mix, and coconut soda. Another bonus is Maisonet’s fascinating look at the island’s ice cream parlors, traditionally owned by Chinese Cuban families. The ample head notes are as bracing as the spicy-enticing food in this bold combo of memory and recipes.

Starred review from September 1, 2022
Illyanna Maisonet, the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the U.S., whose name readers may recognize from Food52, Food & Wine, and other outlets, delivers a deeply personal, history-filled first cookbook featuring the foodways of her family and their homeland. Maisonet explains the roots of Borinquen cooking and the effects on it from colonization, newcomers, and modern challenges, like the island nation having to import 80 percent of its food. Nearly 100 recipes offer a fusion of her family's favorites and other flavors that have influenced the author's life. Armchair cooks--and travelers, too--will appreciate the bright and vibrant photography of dishes and island scenes, as well as Maisonet's honest, funny, and encouraging voice. Maisonet organizes recipes by protein, including many recipes for beef barbacoa and delicious seafood dishes. Home chefs will find lots to learn and aspire to, along with loads of quick and easy recipes for their regular repertoires. This one-of-a-kind cookbook is highly recommended for its combination of island flare, important history, and tons of personality.

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